How long does structural drying take?
Most clean-water losses in habitable rooms take several days of equipment time, and concrete, cavity drying and large losses take longer. The honest answer is that it takes as long as the readings take to hold steady at the dry standard, which is why nobody should promise a day count before the first measurement.
Framing and drywall usually come down fastest, a slab the slowest. Material that sat wet for a week dries more slowly than the same material caught the next morning, because the water has gone deeper into it.
Equipment left running past the point of dryness costs money and achieves nothing; equipment pulled early leaves water in the building. The drying log is what keeps the decision out of the realm of opinion.
Can I just use my own fans and the air conditioning?
Fans alone move damp air around rather than removing water, and household air conditioning dehumidifies as a side effect of cooling rather than as its purpose. For a small, clean spill on a hard floor that may be enough. For wet carpet, a wet wall base or anything inside a cavity, it is not.
The missing piece is capacity. A restoration dehumidifier is built to pull a large amount of water out of the air continuously and to keep the room air dry enough that wet material will release its moisture, which is a different task from making a room comfortable.
Leaving a cooling system to do the job also risks pushing damp air through ducts into dry parts of the building. If contaminated water was involved, that is exactly what you do not want, and it is a reason the air handler is often shut down during the work.
Should I open the windows to dry the house out?
Usually not here. For much of the year the outdoor air in Southwest Florida holds more moisture than the air inside a building being dried, so opening up adds water rather than removing it. A building is normally dried as a closed system with the equipment controlling the air inside it.
There are exceptions on a cool, dry day in the winter months, when outdoor air can genuinely help. A technician will look at the readings rather than the weather headline before deciding.
The same logic explains why doors to unaffected rooms stay closed. Confining the drying to the wet area keeps the dehumidifiers working on the water that matters.
What moves the cost of drying up or down?
The volume of wet space, how much material is wet and what kind, how many machines are needed and for how many days, whether cavity or slab drying is involved, access, power availability and whether the area is contaminated. The scope is explained and approved before equipment is placed.
Equipment days are the main lever, and they are driven by material rather than by room size alone. A wet slab under tile and a wet drywall wall in the same room can be on very different schedules.
Contaminated losses add cleaning and removal before drying can start. The cost guide goes through the same factors, and nothing is charged for work that has not been agreed.
How do you know the building is actually dry?
By comparing readings in the wet material with a dry baseline taken from the same material in an unaffected area, at marked points, on each visit. When those readings hold at the baseline rather than merely falling, the material has given up the water it can give and the equipment comes out.
Surfaces feel dry long before they are dry, which is the trap. A wall can read dry at shoulder height, wet at the bottom plate and wetter still inside the cavity, so the measurement point is part of the measurement.
You are entitled to see the log. It is also what an adjuster, a flooring installer and anyone doing the repair afterward will want, because laying new flooring over a wet subfloor undoes the whole job.